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The Sardinians’ love of good food is evident when you consider the number of food festivals that take place throughout the year, from La Festa dei Ricci (sea urchin) in the small town of Buggerru in April, and Girotonno (tuna) in San Pietro in June, to Sagra delle Castagne (chestnut) in Aritzo in October. Due to Covid some festivals may have been cancelled, so check here first where possible.
The dishes vary enormously around the island – Alghero is famous for its Catalan lobster, and Sassari for its use of snails and artichokes, although they are wood-roasted porcedu (pig) and Pecorino cheese are pretty much ubiquitous. Some foods are found nowhere else, like the must-try pompia fruit, which only grows in Nuoro, and the infamous (and now illegal) cazu marzu (worm cheese).
For further inspiration, see our guide to Sardinia and the island’s best hotels, nightlife, beaches and things to do.
Cagliari
Rafè coffee and shop
In the heart of Cagliari, Rafe is a great pitstop for anything from breakfast (try the “special” of bacon and avocado on toast), coffee and a cake, to a full lunch. Within the smart interior you’ll find a selection of local products, from honey to whimsical ceramics, but most take a table on the street-facing terrace. If it handmade culurgiones (typically filled pasta) is on the menu, don’t hesitate, and if you’re around in the evening, order a cocktail or a crisp glass of Vermentino, and enjoy the complimentary appetizers while you watch the world go by.
Consult: 00 39 070 753 8032; facebook.com/rafecagliari
Opening hours: Mon-Wed, Sat-Sun, 8am-12pm; Thurs-Fri, 08.00-01.00
Price: ££
Best table: On the terrace
Alghero
Read Arenas
You will smell the delicious wood-fired pizzas well before you hit this popular local restaurant. Head to the umbrella-covered terrace overlooking the sea and order one of the metre-long pizzas made with seasonal ingredients. Choose “Balsamica” with smoked ricotta and balsamic, or “Carcioffi” with fried artichoke. In summer, Fiori di Zucca (zucchini flowers) are a specialty not to be missed. It is important to book in advance for the Catalan paella or the lobster, and traditional Sardinian ‘porceddu al forno’ – suckling pig roasted in the oven.
Consult: readers’.it
Price: ££
Reservations: Order if you want one of the special offers
Best table: On the terrace with a view of the sea
La Caletta
Ristorante La Nuova Torre
Facing a Saracen tower overlooking the sea, the simple La Nuova Torre is one of the most popular restaurants in La Caletta, not least because the food is freshly prepared and the bill is often surprisingly low. The simple family-run restaurant specializes in fresh seafood and offers a long list of quality wood-fired pizzas: the ‘tuna and chips’ is remarkably well received. Order decent local wine by the carafe to further reduce the bill, and try to leave room for the homemade desserts, such as creamy tiramisu, or forest fruits with yogurt.
Consult: lanuovatorre.wixsite.com/ristorante
Price: ££
Reservations: Order in advance
Best table: On covered terrace
Cannigione
Agriturismo La Colti
A traditional one stazzo (local farmhouse) which serves a wide variety of specialities, including cold meats, handmade cheeses and Gallurese vegetable soup, most of which is made from produce from the surrounding farmland. The dishes are many, so don’t overdo any of them or you won’t have room for desserts, which include the famous one seadas (a large ‘raviolo’ filled with ricotta and sprinkled with honey). The highlight is the roasted suckling pig, which is spit on an open wood fire in the courtyard, and then served on myrtle leaves.
Consult: lacolti.it
Price: £££
Reservations: Important
Best table: Outdoor terrace with a view of the fireplace
Golfo Aranci
Blu Restaurant, Gabbiano Azzurro & Suites
Even if you don’t live here, you can still experience the luxury of Gabbiano Azzurro’s à la carte restaurant. Blu, run by Chef Daniele Sechi, has been awarded an Espresso Chef’s Hat – one of only six in Sardinia. Sechi makes the most of local ingredients, and creates traditional Sardinian dishes with a modern twist. Don’t miss out branzino (sea bass) baked under salt, and black fregola (handmade Sardinian ‘couscous’ blackened with charcoaled vegetables) served with prawns and asparagus. There are also two terrace bars with sea views that are ideal for sunsets, aperitifs and lunch.
Consult: blu.restaurant
Reservations: Important
Prices: £££
Best table: With a view of the sea
The oil
Su Gologone
The à la carte restaurant at this great boutique hotel is exceptional: everything from bread to pasta and cheeses is homemade, and vegetables are harvested from the garden. The restaurant terrace offers fantastic mountain views, and candlelit tables overlook the pool. The suckling pig, spit-roasted over an open fire, is the main highlight, but vegetarians won’t be disappointed with the handmade potato and cheese. culurgiones. The Magico Tablao bar is perfect for an aperitivo before your meal, and most Fridays you will have the opportunity to hear typical Sardinian polyphonic folk singing. There are four smaller restaurants for tapas, roast meat and focaccia.
Consult: sugologone.it
Prices: £££
Reservations: Important
Best table: Overlooking the pool; order important
Sorgono
Agriturismo su Connottu
What this stone-built agriturismo lacks in size, it makes up for in heart. Just outside Sorgono, Su Connottu offers excellent farm-to-table dining, specializing in homemade pasta and fresh fish and meat from the grill. Homemade wine and grappa are also available. Service is warm and friendly, and look out for occasional musical evenings.
Consult: 00 39 340 326 1495; facebook.com/agriturismosuconnottu
Opening hours: Mon-Sun (closed Thursday), 12.30-2pm. Fri-Sat also open 19.30-21.00
Prices: ££-££££
Best table: Outside, overlooking the vineyards
Capo Comino, Nuoro
Il Moletto
The location, overlooking the sea and the island of Isola Rossa, is fantastic. Before heading to your table, head out with your camera for an aperitif – your Aperol spritz will likely match the incredible colors of the sunset. The kitchen specializes in local cuisine, especially fish and seafood, including crayfish caught at nearby La Caletta, mussels from Olbia and local paranza fish from Capo Comino. Outstanding dishes include tuna carpaccio, with fennel and pecorino from Siniscola, and spaghetti all vongole (clams).
Consult: il-moletto.it
Best table: By the window with a view of the sea
Order: Important
Nuoro
Monti Blu
A five-minute walk from the Museo del Costume, the delightful Monti Blu is a restaurant, bar and shop in one. With outdoor tables, it’s ideal for a lunchtime drink with snacks, while the tables inside the quirky restaurant (over two floors) are surrounded by a small selection of stylish clothes and handicrafts made by local artists. The menu changes regularly, but the crumbed tuna (succulent and pink) is amazing, and desserts are dreamy.
Consult: montiblu.shop/ristorante
Prices: ££
Best table: In the square overlooking Costantino Nivola’s gigantic sculptures
