MILAN — September’s Milan Fashion Week, which runs from September 20 to September 26, is set to be a packed affair, with 67 mostly physical shows, highly anticipated debuts and a slew of returning designer labels.
Among the creatives presenting their first collections for storied houses is Marco de Vincenzo, the newly appointed creative director at Etro, who will make his debut at the helm of the historic Italian brand. For that, he chose a place on the outskirts of the city for the September 23 event, which takes place a few hours after Filippo Grazioli’s renewed vision for Missoni. This will mark Grazioli’s first catwalk since joining the brand as creative director in March. He was already responsible for the resort and men’s spring collections that were unveiled via presentations earlier this summer.
The following day, September 24, a pair of additional highly anticipated debuts take place: Salvatore Ferragamo, which showed via a presentation last season as it prepared a creative change of guard, is back with a coed show designed by newly installed creative director Maximilian Davis, while Bally, which had traditionally hosted presentations, makes its debut on the runway with the first collection designed by Rhuigi Villaseñor, the Manila-born designer behind the Rhude label.
Moncler ends the day celebrating its 70th anniversary with a runway event at 21:00 CET.
According to the preliminary calendar issued on Friday by the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, the week officially starts on September 20 with the Milano Moda Graduate event, the fashion organizer’s awards for graduate collections.
Although a couple of slots later that evening are still being awarded, fashionistas can expect the real action to start on September 21, when the We Are Made in Italy collective of designers and fashion professionals in color will appear digitally, followed by Antonio Marras, who returns to the official calendar with a physical runway show after a few seasons of presentations, exhibition deals and a runway event held in Russia last February.
This is followed by Diesel and Fendi, among others. Although the latter brand is heading to New York Fashion Week to celebrate the 25th anniversary of its popular Baguette bag, which, as reported in WWD, may involve a tie-in with Marc Jacobs, the spring 2023 collection hits Milan as usual. Diesel, meanwhile, opens his show to the public, as does Anteprima, which is marking its 30th anniversary.
Vivetta and Stella Jean also return to the calendar on September 23 after a few years’ absence.
As reported, Matty Bovan moves from London to Milan, supported by Dolce & Gabbana, with a physical show on September 25, while this season’s Valentino and Camera della Moda-backed designers, Galib Gassanoff and Luca Lin of Act N.1, will be featured September 22.
On the penultimate evening, Camera della Moda will hold the Sustainable Fashion Awards event at the La Scala theater and award 12 awards. As reported, the soirée will be hosted by actress Rossy de Palma.
The final day will feature digital-only presentations, including Mmusomaxwell, one of the few new names on the schedule, led by design duo Mmuso Potsane and Maxwell Boko and based in Johannesburg.
The presentation schedule has not yet been released, and a final version of the calendar will be released on September 7, Camera della Moda said.